People who seek thrills, especially through adventure sports, are often referred to as “adrenaline junkies”. Surfers fit into that category and could be considered some of the original adrenaline junkies. After all, surfing was around long before bungee jumping, cave diving, zip lining, street luge or a host of other thrill seeking sports came on the scene. In fact, surfing has been practiced by Polynesians for hundreds if not thousands of years, far predating the terms adrenaline junkie or “extreme sports” I’d wager 😉
Adrenaline junkies don’t have to be annoying, danger-seeking twenty-somethings who insist on constantly screaming “woooooooo!” whenever they do anything slightly physical. Those are show-offs, which is a totally different thing. Getting an adrenaline kick can be a personal, almost spiritual pursuit.
Take this quote from Lawrence Brashears, a 64-year-old surfer and financial management vice president from Florida (via Vero Beach Newsweekly):
A wave is a vortex. A natural part of the spinning of the earth. Surfers are in tune with that energy. Only a surfer knows the feeling you get when you are in the barrel—the moment when time stops, the moment when you are weightless. It’s a great moment. Surfing gives you all these ‘moments’ when your adrenaline soars.
So where do surfing adrenaline junkies get that kick? It can be had year-round in places like Bali, one of the global capitals of surfing.
From the Economic Times:
BEST SURF SPOTS IN SE ASIA: Start with Bali. Kuta, Padang Padang, or Uluwatu and try the Nusa Lembongan, Nusa Penida for some group fun. Next stop could be at Maldives where surfing lessons can have a dash of romance. Recommended for couples who would like to revel in cosy ‘togetherness’. Andaman Sea has some beautiful surf spot classes extended to groups. Book your sessions and surf away!
Check out Rapture Camps, one of the top surfing schools and lodges in Bali, located in close proximity to Bali’s best surf spots.
Tubed. Pic: Duncan Rawlinson (Flickr CC)
